Mana Pools Africa - A Hackberry Farm Nature Photography Workshops field report

As the sun came up, soft light dappled the woodlands along the Zambezi River.  In the understory, impala move about, keeping one eye on each other and another eye on the constant danger that lurks nearby.  This vast river bottom in Northern Zimbabwe is home to wild dogs, lions, and leopards, all lurking in the shadows searching for their next meal.

https://youtu.be/cpZozGC_0sA

In the distance, we see some movement:  it’s one of the Mana Pools famed elephants.  These elephants are noteworthy for their ability to perform the “Mana Stretch,” a feeding behavior in which they reach high into the trees with their trunks, stand on their two hind legs to reach higher, or climb up the base of trees for a better reach.  Most elephants graze from the ground, but these elephants (through learned behavior and a genetic predisposition) defy the conventional behavior.

While the elephant grazes behind some other trees, we still see him exhibit the unusual behavior.  It’s the first time I’ve ever witnessed such, but images will have to wait as the elephant feeds a bit, turns away from us, and heads deeper into the woods.

The site is an exhilarating one for this nature photography workshop.  However, it’s just one of many we experience as we’ll parallel the mighty Zambezi each morning and afternoon.

“Look there,” says Nomsa, a young woman who’s studying to be a professional guide. “It is a lion track.”

She’s right.  Overnight, a male lion patrolled through the area.  Lately, the staff tells me, there’s been an upheaval in the local pride.  Two new males (brothers who crossed the river from Zambia) have infiltrated the Mana lion’s territory.  Hence, the females with cubs are in hiding to keep their cubs safe from the interlopers that will surely kill any young that don’t share their genetics.  The dominant male is searching day and night for the intruders in order to re-establish his dominance.  As such, the lions aren’t their normal calm self.  However, we do see the two new male lions in the distance and a group of kitten-less adult females who lazily lie in the sun.

During most of the trip, the lions were most active at night, as the feline warfare went as covertly as it could to maintain the element of surprise.  In the day, the lions would hide in thick cover from one another.  In the evening, they’d roam about in search of one another.  The constant roars and groans we heard during the night are proof of that.

What we lacked in lion action, we made up for with the other wildlife that abounds here.

In the local language, Shona, Mana means four.  Translated, the park is called Four Pools in English. Named for the four long pools that are remnants of the vast floodplain, the water rises and falls based on seasonal subterranean water movement through the water-bearing sands.  While we’re here, the pools are about half full but are still home to crocodiles, hippos, and copious numbers of wading birds.  Here you’ll see the typical southern African animals like the zebra and other plains game.

In camp, the lodging is how I’d expect it to be:  luxury accommodations paired with scrumptious and abundant food served in a remote and immersive outdoor experience.  The best part of all of these experiences is the impeccable service and hospitality we receive from the folks who work at these outposts in some of the wildest places on the planet.

We are indeed lucky to be here.  As the sun sinks over the Zambezi, that’s an easy concept to behold.

The next day, we’re back out again when we see a big male elephant grazing along a treeline.  We’re about forty yards from him, and I notice he has a collar around his neck.  I mentioned it to Kenny, our guide.

“It’s a tracking collar,” says Kenny.  “ Scientists are keeping up with the males who do the ‘Mana Stretch,’ to see how successful they are in passing on their genes.”

After watching the elephant feed for a couple of  minutes, Kenny asks, “Want to get out and walk near him?”

We slip from the Land Cruiser and walk within mere yards of the elephant.  We’re so close, I have to photograph him with a 16mm lens.  As if on cue, the big pachyderm stretches high into the tree to get that perfect leaf.  Cameras click in earnest.  The moment is exhilarating.

I thought that was the best moment until the last evening of this incredible excursion.  Instead of a safari drive, we take to a canoe to float the mighty Zambezi in search of wildlife.  It doesn’t take long.

Immediately upon launch, we drift past hippos staring at us curiously.  We see a number of water birds like the water thick-knee and the blacksmith lapwing.  The most special bird sighting was catching a glimpse of the shy yet colorful Malachite kingfisher.  A diminutive bird with iridescent blue feathers and orange feet is spectacular to see.

Just when I thought that sighting was incredible, we saw a big male elephant feeding on a small grassy island in the middle of the river.  At first, he’s content plucking up trunkfuls of grass and stuffing them into his mouth.

Then he notices us…

He then turns swiftly in our direction and hurries into the water towards our canoes.  Kenny talks softly to the behemoth.  The giant squares off with us with a curious gaze, but then he slips away back into the Zambezi.

At the float’s end, we gather around the banks of the river for a traditional sundowner - a practice of having drinks and watching the sun go down over the African plains.  Tonight’s sundowner is the last in Mana Pools and, as things go on these adventures, is always a bit bittersweet.  We all talk about the week we’ve had and adventures to come, but mainly, we reflect on our newfound friendships and the time we’ve spent on one of Africa’s mightiest rivers.

What a time.

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